The Grailed 100 Archive

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Undercover Ethnic Rider

A/W 2009 Earmuff Maniac Collection

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Hailing from the exemplary A/W09 season, entitled “Earmuff Maniac,” Undercover’s Ethnic Rider has become a grail for many due to its intricate details and relative rarity. While Raf Simons may have been the first to highlight the work of English graphic designer Peter Saville, this season from Jun Takahashi utilized Saville’s iconic heartbeat graphics from the Joy Division album Unknown Pleasures. The leather and knit jacket features iconic shoulder detailing including tassels, beads, and medallions embossed with the Undercover mantra of “We Make Noise Not Clothes.” It is a perfect example of the way Takahasi effortlessly fuses the worlds of music, art and fashion to make Undercover the highly-coveted brand it is today.

Saint Laurent Paris Teddy Jacket

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Undercover Zamiang Flannel

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Number (N)ine High Streets Combo Wool Jacket

A/W 2005 High Streets Collection

BaVW68v8TQq2qUkwAOuuRick Owens Sternberg Hooded Jacket

S/S 2014 Vicious Collection

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Saint Laurent Paris Crash Denim

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Rick Owens Bomber Jacket

S/S 2015 Faun Season

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Fear of God Long Sleeve Flannel

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Saint Laurent Paris Jodphur Boots

kAJ6k4HKRKWTvj8xzAZRUndercover She Brings The Rain Jacket

S/S 2012 Open Strings Collection

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Another exceptional example of Takahashi’s work is this mixed-media leather and cotton “She Brings The Rain” jacket from Undercover’s S/S12 “Open Strings” collection. Continuing to stay true to his punk aesthetic decades after founding his label, this piece is adorned with graphics inspired by German Krautrock band Can.

Common Projects Achilles Mid

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Raf Simons Stan Smith

AW 2015

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Junya Watanabe Wide Trousers

A/W 2013

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Visvim Bearfoot Lhamo Folk

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Visvim FBT Sashiko

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Visvim Patchwork Flannel

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Visvim FIL Exclusive Lhamo Shirt

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Junya Watanabe Goat Leather Pants

A/W 2012 Season

f7sUSoGrRSyZTpQUAFUiVisvim Lhamo Indigo Dyed

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Ralph Lauren Polo Tribal Beacon Cardigan

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Junya Watanabe Johnsons Leather Jacket

A/W 2011 collaboration between EYE Comme Des Garcons Junya Watanabe and Johnson Leathers

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Ralph Lauren Polo Indian Head Sweater

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Helmut Lang Pillow Neck Bondage Bomber

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A true pioneer, Helmut Lang is regarded as one of the most influential fashion designers of all time. Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, no other designer had a more lasting impact on high-end menswear. Taking cues from bondage and military styles, Lang was the first to perfect the minimalist look being harnessed by designers and brands today. Examples of this influence range from biker details on his waxed denim to bomber jackets, both now ubiquitous staples. The pillow neck bomber is notable due to its parachute-inspired “bondage” straps that allow the garment to be worn in a pseudo-backpack style. This small but impactful detail has been liberally used by designers such as Hood by Air and Craig Green.

Jill Sanders Overcoat

Raf Simons era Jil Sander.

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Dior Victim of the Crime Hoodie

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Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist Pajama Jacket

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Rick Owens Grimp Hoodie

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Raf Simons D-Ring Pants

S/S 2003 Consumed Collection

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Raf Simons Consumed Tank

S/S 2003 Consumed collection

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Raf Simons Sterling Ruby Camo Jeans

A/W 2014 Season

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Undercover Water Camo Backpack

Spring/Summer 2010 Less But Better Collection
Adorned with Undercover patch, water camo graphics and “We Make Noise Not Clothes Text”

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Bottega Veneta Chelsea Boots

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Raf Simons PCL Parka

A/W 2003-04 Closer Collection

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Raf Simmons Poltergeist Fishtail Parka

A/W 2005 History of my World Collection

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Raf Simons Sterling Ruby Fishtail Parka

F/W 2014 Sterling Ruby Collaboration

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Undercover Uism Fishtail Parka

2000-01 Melting Pot Season, based on Star Wars

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Junya Watanabe M51 Fishtail Parka

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Supreme Motion Fishtail Parka

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Supreme Illegal Business Hoodie

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Dior Distressed Light Wash Jeans

Hedi Slimane era Dior Homme S/S 2006 Collection

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Common Projects Chelsea Boots

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Stephan Schneider Rugs to Riches Coat

A/W 2012 From Rugs to Riches Collection.

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Maison Margiela German Army Trainer

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Number (N)ine High Streets Jacket

A/W 2005 High Streets Collection

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Helmut Land Astro Biker

A/W 1999 Seance de Travail Collection.

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Number (N)ine High Streets Mixed Jacket

A/W 2005 High Streets Collection

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APC X Kanye Washed Denim

Second Collection

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Nimber (N)ine Knit Coat

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Jil Sander Marble Pants

From A/W 2008 Season during Raf Simons’ tenure at Jil Sander.

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Helmut Lang Faith, Hope, Charity Shirt

2003.

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Carol Christian Poell Black Dripps

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Known for his various eccentricities, Carol Christian Poell exists in a truly unique space. Blurring the lines between art and fashion, Poell has built a cult following due to his utilization of old-world handmade construction techniques and unconventional materials like human hair and blood-dyed leathers. In particular, the “Object-dyed, No-seam, Drip Rubber” sneakers pictured here have come to symbolize the designer’s ethos. They are handcrafted by Poell and his team of artisans from calf and kangaroo leathers, dyed whole, dipped in latex rubber and allowed to hang dry. This leaves the signature “drips” hanging from the soles of the sneakers prior to wear.

Raf Simons Poltergeist Sweater

FW 2005-06 History of My World Collection

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Haider Ackermann Velour Hoodie

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Craig Green Multi Placket Shirt

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Helmut Lang Waxed Denim Moto Pants

A/W 1999 Seance de Travail Collection

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Kris Van Asche Multilace Sneaker

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Marsell Combat Boots

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Raf Simmons Consumed New Kids T-Shirt

S/S 2003 Consumed collection

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Jil Sander Red Python T-Shirt

S/S 2012 Season by Raf Simons

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Supreme Peter Saville T-Shirt

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Jil Sander Blue Python T-Shirt

S/S 2012 Season by Raf Simons

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Raf Simons New Tribes T-Shirt

Raf by Raf Simons

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Undercover Psycho Candy T-Shirt

2014

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Fear of God Vintage Guns N’ Roses T-Shirt

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Dior The End T-Shirt

Hedi Slimane A/W 2005 Collection

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Palace Versace T-Shirt

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Undercover We Make Noise Not Clothes T-Shirt

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Gosha Rubchinskiy Red Logo T-Shirt

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 Supreme Molodkin Box Logo T-Shirt

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Supreme Coca Cola Box Logo T-Shirt

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Supreme Black Box Logo T-Shirt

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Palace Coco Loco T-Shirt

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Raf Simons Waves Patches Sweater

A/W 2004-05 Waves Collection

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Incarnation Zipper Gloves

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Raf Simons Virginia Creeper Hoodie

A/W 2002-03 Virginia Creeper Collection

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Yohji Yamamoto Wool Cardigan Jacket

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Raf Simons Riot Jacket

A/W 2001-02 Riot Riot Riot Season

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Undercover WMNNC Black Backpack

Spring/Summer 2010 Less But Better Collection
Adorned with Undercover patch and “We Make Noise Not Clothes Text”

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WTAPS Way of Life Patchwork Sweater

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Raf Simons Velcro Straps Sneakers

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Engineered Garments Over Parka

Fall/Winter 2013

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Ann Demeulemeester Overcoat

fall/winter 2013

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Cav Empt Plague Hoodie

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APC X Kanye Military Sweater

Second Collection

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Cav Empt Tech Long Sleeve

A/W 2012

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Cav Empt Icon Pullover

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Undercover Scab Jacket

S/S 2003 Scab Season

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Hender Scheme MIP-10

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Rick Owens Geobaskets

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Rick Owens Limited Edition Memphis Pants

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Y-3 Qasa High Boost

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Julius Gas Mask Cargos

A/W 2015 Sphere Season

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Nom De Guerre Combat Vest

A/W 2010 Season

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Helmet Lang Long Astro Biker

A/W 1999 Seance de Travail Collection

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Rick Owens White Dunks

2009

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Helmet Lang Bondage Longsleeve

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Rick Owens DRKSHDW Parka

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Craig Green Quilted Coat

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